An Old Flame Warms Up a Fall Favorite

You can’t quite remember why you broke up in the first place. There was never any drama, nothing gossip worthy happened, no neighbors were disturbed when you parted ways. The relationship ran its course and you needed a change. This, dear neighbors, is how it was with me and big oaky chardonnays. Sure, it was rich, creamy and comforting, but my taste buds began to crave the cleaner, more fruit driven chardonnays with little or no oak. Bright zesty Burgundians turned my head. I seldom revisited the unapologetic stalwart who had charmed me in my youth. But lately, I must confess, I’ve missed the comfort of those big shouldered, richer wines. The cooler temperatures certainly play a role in that. When I come off my sailboat and can’t feel my toes, I don’t want to go home to a bracing Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. If I’m in the mood for a white, I want to be warmed, nurtured - coddled even. Last Sunday was one of those nights. After a lively, but chilly sail, I was ready to thaw.

That night’s dinner was one that I particularly enjoy in autumn, Chicken Sautéed with Apples, a recipe that I found in Real Simple magazine. Also made with dijion mustard, onions, garlic, thyme and apple juice, it cooks up into a gently satisfying meal. Though I felt that a Pinot Noir would be a nice accompaniment (I think pinots pair beautifully with most everything except breakfast), I found myself in the mood for a rich, creamy chardonnay with just a bit of butter. Stop cringing. I’m not referring to that movie popcorn, processed butter that too many California chardonnays seem to be soaked in, but just a cozy touch, enough to warm me and take off the chill.

So, I dug around and found an old favorite that my husband picked up recently at Sam’s. 2007 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. If you’re like me, that takes you way back. I really liked it years ago, before I had branched out and challenged my palate. I remembered that it wasn’t very complex, but I had enjoyed it. So, I popped the (now synthetic) cork and poured a hearty glass. It was precisely what I needed. Soft, green apple touched with honey swirled around, spiced with vanilla and capped off with some toasty oak. A little lemon poked its way into the mix as well. It’s made entirely from estate fruit, so you know they’re paying attention. The wine celebrated the baked apple in the dish and the meal deepened the chardonnay’s flavor profile.

Do I still rendezvous with crispier, more subtle chardonnays? To be sure. But since fickleness is encouraged in the wine loving world, I can still curl up with my big bold pals when the mood strikes.

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